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Rear Shock Replacement

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Old 06-29-2010, 03:15 PM
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Rear Shock Replacement

I need to replace one of my rear shocks and was wondering how difficult it is? I will be replacing both rear shocks. I looked in the FSM and it just says to:

1. Remove tire with power tool.
2. Set transmission jack on rear axle assembly to remove fitting bolt and nut in lower side of shock absorber.
3. Remove transmission jack from rear axle assembly.
4. Remove rear seat cushion, rear seat back and rear parcel shelf finisher.
5. Remove fitting nut in upper side of shock absorber.
Install in reverse order.

Is it really that simple? I feel like it should be a little more complicated then that. Any little tricks I should look out for?

I have a 2003 6MT Sedan. Could I put the Sport shocks in from like a 2006 and improve handling or would ride comfort suffer?

Thanks

Joe McDaniel
Old 06-29-2010, 03:46 PM
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it's very simple. the fronts are a bit more difficult. check the TECH section for more help. there is a DIY for this around some where, just do some searching. i used it when i swapped to Z suspension.

you already have sport shock since you're a 6MT so yes '06 sport shocks will work. no noticeable difference though.
Old 06-29-2010, 03:54 PM
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It's easy. Wheel off, one supporting bolt underneath (17mm) and two or three up top to hold it.
Old 06-29-2010, 09:59 PM
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Old 06-29-2010, 10:56 PM
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Put D-Specs on.
Old 07-23-2010, 02:34 AM
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Well, I tried to take the shocks off tonight but ran into a problem I read somewhere else on here... the lower shock bolt is seized to the bushing and it won't come out. I tried liquid wrench and WD40, big hammers and pry bars. Who ran into this problem before? How did you end up getting it off? I'm afraid I'm going to have to take the entire spindle off to press it out. Which I suppose I'll have to do anyway to replace the bushing... but it still sucks.

Thoughts?

Thanks

Joe Mac
Old 07-23-2010, 03:37 AM
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Sounds to me like there is a lot of pressure on the lower shock bolt which is preventing you from pulling the bolt out

Jack up the lower control arm and spindle assembly so that it relieves some pressure off the lower shock bolt. Do this slowly to find the perfect point some where it gives the bolt some wiggle room. If you pass this point the bolt will get stuck and will be very hard to remove again. This should help you pull the bolt out a lot easier.
Old 07-23-2010, 03:47 AM
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I pulled the shock out of the top mount and there is zero force on the bolt. The steel sleeve of the bushing is frozen onto the bolt.
Old 07-23-2010, 11:38 AM
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You could also try heating the spindle (not too much) to expand it, though if it's as seized as you say, even that may not help.
Old 07-26-2010, 10:46 PM
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I posted a question in the brake/suspension section before I noticed this thread. Trying to things in the right place

Any idea of the time it would take? Like how much time a dealership would charge for? If I didn't misunderstand the price today of around $350, that would be 2 hours if the shock cost $150.
Old 08-25-2010, 09:20 AM
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I had this problem... Nothing worked to free it... I ended up cutting the bolt off with a saws-all. Then just ordered a new bolt from the dealer for like 10 bucks with the bushing.. problem is the bushing has to be pressed so i took it to a local shop and they pressed it and put it back on for 1 hour labor $60..




Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeMac View Post
Well, I tried to take the shocks off tonight but ran into a problem I read somewhere else on here... the lower shock bolt is seized to the bushing and it won't come out. I tried liquid wrench and WD40, big hammers and pry bars. Who ran into this problem before? How did you end up getting it off? I'm afraid I'm going to have to take the entire spindle off to press it out. Which I suppose I'll have to do anyway to replace the bushing... but it still sucks.

Thoughts?

Thanks

Joe Mac
The Following User Says Thank You to JER For This Useful Post:
2006g35sedan (05-29-2014)
Old 08-25-2010, 06:08 PM
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I ended up cutting one ear off of the lower shock mount, and getting it off that way. However, my upper control arm nut was seized as well. I had an impact hammering on it and it never budged. Ended up having to take the control arm off the car with the hub to press in the new bushing. Took me over 2 hours to get the new shock on.

The other side went smoothly... took like 30 minutes. Go figure.
Old 05-29-2014, 10:27 AM
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Sorry to revive an ancient thread but I'm in the same situation now. Did the shop press out/in the bushing still on the car with a C clamp style press or did they have to take the axle housing off and put it in a shop press?

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by JER View Post
I had this problem... Nothing worked to free it... I ended up cutting the bolt off with a saws-all. Then just ordered a new bolt from the dealer for like 10 bucks with the bushing.. problem is the bushing has to be pressed so i took it to a local shop and they pressed it and put it back on for 1 hour labor $60..
Old 06-01-2014, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006g35sedan View Post
Sorry to revive an ancient thread but I'm in the same situation now. Did the shop press out/in the bushing still on the car with a C clamp style press or did they have to take the axle housing off and put it in a shop press?

Thanks
For reference...

When ordering from Nissan, the part numbers are:
56219-AL500 for the bushing
56280-AQ00A for the bolt

And the ball joint press tool does fit in there, took the shop 45 minutes total after I had already cut off the shock. No need to remove the axle support to put it in a shop press.
Old 12-27-2014, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006g35sedan View Post
For reference...

When ordering from Nissan, the part numbers are:
56219-AL500 for the bushing
56280-AQ00A for the bolt

And the ball joint press tool does fit in there, took the shop 45 minutes total after I had already cut off the shock. No need to remove the axle support to put it in a shop press.

Sorry to revive this old thread (once again), but

1. would this type of C-clamp ball joint press be enough to push out this suspension bushing, and push the new one in? If so, are there any tricks/tips to this?



2. I have to actually cut a fork off of the installed shock due to the bolt seizing onto the inside of the inner bushing bolt sleeve. IF I get myself stuck without a way to press out the old bushing and install the new one (If the c-clamp will not work), could the car be driven about 1/4 of a mile to my shop without danger/damage without a shock absorber on one side of the rear end?



(Luckily, one of my HF sockets is perfectly sized to be the press surface in contact with the bushing's metal ring.)

Last edited by munkle; 12-28-2014 at 11:12 PM.

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2007, absorber, g35, g35x, nut, rear, remove, removing, replace, replacement, seat, sedan, seized, shock, shocks
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